Testaccio
The birthplace of Roman cuisine. Where locals eat, and tourists fear to tread.
🍝 Best Food🏭 Working Class🇮🇹 100% Roman
The birthplace of Roman cuisine. Where locals eat, and tourists fear to tread.
Testaccio isn't pretty. There's no Trevi Fountain, no baroque churches, no Renaissance art. What it has is something better: the soul of Roman cuisine.
This working-class neighborhood grew up around Rome's slaughterhouse (Mattatoio), which operated from 1891 to 1975. The workers here couldn't afford prime cuts - so they invented the "quinto quarto" (fifth quarter) cuisine: offal dishes like coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), trippa (tripe), and pajata (intestines).
Sound scary? Don't worry - Testaccio also perfected carbonara, amatriciana, and gricia. The trattorias here haven't changed their recipes in generations. No truffle oil, no fusion, no Instagram presentation. Just pure Roman food the way your great-grandmother's nonna made it.
"If you only eat at one neighborhood in Rome, make it Testaccio. Everything else is tourism."
- Every Roman foodie ever
Forget the tourist markets. Mercato Testaccio is where Romans actually shop. Moved from the historic outdoor location to a modern covered building in 2012, it's still 100% authentic.
Legendary sandwiches
Must try: Trippa panino (trust us)
Cucina romana
Must try: Supplì al telefono
Fresh produce
Must try: Roman artichokes in season
Maritozzi
Must try: Cream-filled Roman brioche
Hours: Mon-Sat 7am-3pm. Closed Sunday. Go hungry.
These are not trendy spots. These are temples of Roman cuisine, unchanged for decades. Reservations essential.
Famous for: Cacio e Pepe
The cacio e pepe here is legendary - made tableside with theatrical flair. Old-school service, old-school food. Reserve weeks ahead.
Must order: Cacio e Pepe (obviously), Abbacchio (lamb)
Famous for: Pizza Romana
Cash only, no reservations, lines out the door. Ultra-thin, crispy Roman pizza. Locals argue it's Rome's best. Prepare to wait.
Must order: Margherita, Fiori di zucca, any seasonal special
Famous for: All Roman classics
Built into Monte Testaccio (ancient pottery hill). Excellent carbonara, gricia, and nose-to-tail dishes if you're brave.
Must order: Carbonara, Coda alla vaccinara (oxtail)
Famous for: Quinto Quarto
Operating since 1887, opposite the old slaughterhouse. Temple of offal cuisine. Not for the faint-hearted, but deeply traditional.
Must order: Rigatoni con la pajata (intestines - yes, really)
Monte Testaccio is a 35-meter hill made entirely of broken amphorae (ancient Roman shipping containers). Over centuries, millions of pottery shards were discarded here from the nearby river port.
Today, nightclubs and bars are literally built into the caves in the hillside. Testaccio nightlife is real - not tourist-focused. Expect Roman 20-somethings, electronic music, and clubs that don't get going until 1am.
Where Keats and Shelley are buried. Hauntingly beautiful.
Contemporary art in the old slaughterhouse. Free entry.
Testaccio is Roma territory. Wear red and gold!
Piramide (Line B) - 5 min walk to market
20 min from Colosseum, 25 min from Trastevere
Many buses from Termini and city center
Our food tour guides are born-and-raised Romans who know every vendor, every chef, every story. Skip the tourist traps and eat the real Rome.